Hua Hin, Thailand: I Came for the Teeth, Stayed for the People (and the Moo Kratha)

Most people when they think of Thailand think: Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket or Koh Samui but I am telling you first hand, forget the usual Thai tourist hotspots.

Hua Hin offers beautiful beaches, brilliant food, affordable living and a welcoming community that might just have you checking the price of a one-way ticket.

Thailand has always been one of my favourite countries, but until this year, Hua Hin wasn't particularly high on my radar.

Bangkok? Been there. Phuket? Done that. Pattaya? Well, that's another story.

But Hua Hin, around three hours' drive south of Bangkok, turned out to be something rather special. And strangely enough, it all started with two missing teeth.

I've now visited three times in 2026, spending around five weeks in total enjoying what I reckon is one of Thailand's most underrated seaside destinations.

A dental appointment with a holiday attached

Friends of mine who live in Hua Hin recommended Nana Dental Clinic (opens in a new tab) when I mentioned needing two dental implants.

Back in Australia, the cost was enough to make my remaining teeth nervous. So I decided to investigate.

Long story short, the team at Nana Dental did a fantastic job, I saved thousands compared with the Australian quotes, and managed to squeeze in five weeks of working remotely, catching up with friends and exploring Hua Hin.

Not a bad return on a couple of dental appointments. I now have teeth, and can eat steak - winning!

Of course, dental tourism requires proper research, particularly around qualifications, treatment plans and follow-up care. But for me, the experience was excellent.

Why everyone's retiring to Hua Hin

One thing that struck me was the number of Australians and other international expats who've made Hua Hin home.

And it's not difficult to understand why.

Accommodation, restaurants, transport, entertainment and everyday living expenses can be substantially cheaper than Australia. You can enjoy a very comfortable lifestyle without needing to sell a kidney to pay the electricity bill.

You could literally get a studio apartment (hotel room) which includes a bed, cupboard, desk, small kitchen, shower, toilet, balcony which also has access to a pool and a gym for – when I was there – 21000 baht – or in AUD times at the writing of this article, for under $1,000 per month – yes, I said per month.

Thailand also offers dedicated retirement visa pathways for eligible foreigners aged 50 and over, subject to financial and other requirements.

But it's more than the affordability. Hua Hin has a genuine community feel. People know one another, friendships form quickly, and it's remarkably easy to find yourself becoming a regular somewhere.

I managed that in about three days.

Beaches, markets and a little seaside indulgence

Hua Hin's beachfront is a beauty. Long stretches of sand, warm water, beachfront restaurants and the occasional horse wandering past. Yes, horse riding on the beach is actually a thing here.

One of my favourite discoveries was JIN CLUB, a beachfront wellness venue that takes relaxing rather seriously.

For around 400 baht during my visit, I could settle into a beachfront lounge for the day, order food and cocktails, swim in the ocean, take an ice bath or rotate through several different saunas and steam rooms.

Personally, I preferred the cocktail-and-sun-lounge combination, although I did give the wellness facilities a workout.

And a special mention to the lovely Ooohlala lady (named so because she kept saying Ooohlala) who gave me a pedicure while I relaxed in the sunshine with a drink. A remarkably affordable little luxury that I could get used to.

Away from the beach, Hua Hin has plenty to explore.

The Hua Hin Night Market (opens in a new tab) is terrific for seafood, street food, live bands and people-watching. For something a little more artistic, Cicada Market (opens in a new tab) combines handmade crafts, art, food and live entertainment. I managed to pick up some fantastic souvenirs for the family whilst there.

The historic railway station is worth a look, while the Khao Takiab area offers beaches, a hilltop temple, restaurants and resident monkeys who have absolutely no respect for personal property.

For golfers, Hua Hin is something of a paradise, with several highly regarded courses. And families aren't forgotten either, with water parks, beach activities and plenty of easy-going dining options.

Soi 80: Where the real characters live

Now, here's where Hua Hin really won me over.

Soi 80 isn't some polished tourist entertainment precinct. It's a lively street full of small bars, familiar faces, colourful characters and the sort of atmosphere that makes you feel like you've been coming here for years.

My Wednesday nights became something of a ritual at Joe's Bar.

Steve, an Aussie expat, is usually there, along with O and her wonderful team, including Cream and Susie Q.

Wednesday entertainment comes courtesy of husband-and-wife duo Susan and Larry, who belt out everything from singalong classics to dance tunes and plenty of Aussie rock.

But keep an eye on their 19-year-old son Jollo. This young bloke can seriously play guitar. The sort of talent that makes the rest of us wonder why we ever bothered learning three chords.

For the record, whilst his dad plays an incredible keyboard with his only seven fingers, and his mum is the ultimate rock goddess, this kid is one of the best talents I have seen in a long time and I seriously hope someone who can help his career notices. If you go, be sure to ask him to play ‘Freebird’s’, you won’t regret it!

Just along the street, BB Bar became another favourite.

Owner Fon occasionally fires up the barbecue out front, cooking fresh ‘live’ shrimp that are worth hanging around for.

Meanwhile, the beautiful, charming, funny, talented, hard working and entertaining Melon keeps the drinks flowing and the atmosphere buzzing, while Priaw and Som dance up a storm. Throw in a little karaoke and you've got yourself a cracking night.

Then there's The Secret Bar, another wonderfully welcoming little establishment.

Its owner, Ing, was kind enough to teach me how to cook Pad Krapow, one of my favourite Thai dishes. That's spicy minced meat with holy basil, usually served over rice with a fried egg.

Learning to cook authentic Thai food from a local bar owner wasn't exactly on my original holiday itinerary, but it's one of those experiences that stays with you.

And Ing, if you're reading this, mine still doesn't taste quite as good as yours!

Binthabat, King Bar and the Amazing Mimi

Not to be outdone by the fun and games of Soi 80, just a short distance away in Binthabat is King Bar, home to one of my favourite new friends and quite possibly the best bar hostess in Hua Hin! (sorry Melon!)

The wonderfully crazy Mimi has an extraordinary talent for making everyone who walks through the door feel like they're the most important person in the room.

She somehow manages to convince you she's there just to hang out with you, while making every other reveller feel exactly the same.

It's a rare talent, and I reckon Mimi might just be the best in the business! But a word of warning: don't challenge her to a game of pool. This girl must have an angel guiding her cue because she rarely misses a shot.

And a special shout-out to the lovely Mayzey, who's equally terrific company and somehow manages to serve what I'm convinced is the coldest Leo beer in Hua Hin.

Between the laughs, the company and the occasional humiliation on the pool table, King Bar is another little Hua Hin gem that keeps you coming back!

Forget the kebab. It's Moo Kratha time.

In Australia, a night out often finishes with a questionable kebab.

In Hua Hin, I discovered something considerably better.

At the top of Soi 80, the Joe's Bar crew put on a fantastic Moo Kratha experience, a Thai-style barbecue and hotpot combination.

Picture a domed grill on hot coals surrounded by a moat of bubbling broth. You cook your own meat on top while vegetables, noodles and other goodies simmer around the edges.

It's social, delicious, dangerously addictive and is that affordable you wont believe it.

I reckon I ate there every second night.

If someone could bring this exact experience to Australia, they'd have my business immediately.

Where to Stay in Hua Hin – Luxury Without the Lottery Win

One of the great things about Hua Hin is the sheer variety of accommodation. Whether you're after five-star luxury, a boutique villa, a serviced apartment or a comfortable budget hotel, there's something for just about everyone.

At the top end, the beachfront Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa (opens in a new tab) and Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa (opens in a new tab) offer all the bells and whistles, with spectacular pools, restaurants, spa facilities and direct beach access. Both are excellent options for families, couples and travellers who enjoy a little indulgence.

But two places I personally stayed at, and would happily return to tomorrow, are Villa Seville (opens in a new tab) and Cae Villa (opens in a new tab).

Villa Seville is a gorgeous little boutique property with Spanish-inspired architecture, spacious beautifully appointed rooms, enormous bathtubs and a lovely swimming pool surrounded by tropical gardens. It's intimate, peaceful and offers that personal touch you sometimes lose in larger resorts. Perfect for couples or anyone wanting a relaxing escape without paying a fortune.

Literally just next door, Cae Villa takes things a step further in the privacy department. Its beautifully appointed villas come with their own private plunge pools, outdoor lounging areas, large bathrooms and plenty of space to spread out. It's the sort of place where you could quite happily spend an entire afternoon doing absolutely nothing, and feel you've achieved something magnificent.

Having stayed at both, I can genuinely recommend them. The accommodation, friendly staff and overall value were brilliant and the prices for this luxury you would pay double for a basic motel in Australia, seriously.

And here's the real kicker. Hua Hin has a staggering number of affordable accommodation options. Depending on the season, availability and location, you can sometimes find perfectly decent hotel rooms for as little as AUD $35 a night.

That's not camping, either. We're talking proper beds, air-conditioning, private bathrooms and often a swimming pool thrown in.

At those prices, you could almost afford to stay an extra week just to recover from the holiday!

Getting around

Hua Hin is an easy drive from Bangkok, although Thai traffic has its own interpretation of road rules.

Hiring a car gives you freedom to explore, but around town I found taxis, Grab and local transport convenient and affordable.

Thailand drives on the left, so at least we Aussies have one less thing to worry about.

Pro tips for visiting Hua Hin

• Stay centrally: Especially if you want easy access to the beach, markets and Soi 80.
• Visit Cicada Market on a weekend: It's a different experience from the traditional night market.
• Check the retirement visa requirements: Thailand offers options for eligible over-50s, but financial and immigration conditions apply.
• Try Moo Kratha: Go hungry, take your time and make an evening of it.
• Don't overplan: Some of Hua Hin's best experiences come from simply meeting people and seeing where the day takes you.
• Get soaked at Songkran: Visiting Hua Hin in April in 2027? Thailand's famous New Year Water Festival runs from 13–15 April, turning the streets into one enormous water fight. Expect buckets, water pistols and absolutely no mercy for unsuspecting tourists! Pack a waterproof phone pouch, leave your Sunday best at home and prepare to get drenched. It's organised chaos at its finest! I might even see you there!

Would I go back?

Absolutely.

I've travelled extensively through Thailand over the years, but Hua Hin surprised me.

It's not as frantic as Bangkok, not as tourist-saturated as Phuket, and doesn't try quite so hard to entertain you as Pattaya.

Instead, it offers good food, lovely beaches, terrific value and, most importantly, genuinely wonderful people.

I arrived needing two new teeth.

I left with two new teeth, some great new and dear friends, a slightly expanded waistline and a rather serious appreciation for Thai barbecues.

And that's my kind of holiday.

Find out more - HUA HIN Travel Guide