Lovina, Bali: The Bali You Thought Had Disappeared

Bali has changed enormously. Kuta, Seminyak and Canggu now deliver beach clubs, cocktail bars, designer shops, luxury resorts and traffic jams that can make Melbourne’s peak hour feel reasonably civilised.

But cross the mountains to Bali’s quieter northern coast and you’ll discover Lovina—a collection of coastal villages where rice fields, tropical gardens, fishing boats and black volcanic beaches replace much of the hype found down south.

Lovina isn’t completely untouched, of course. There are now quality resorts, restaurants and plenty of visitor experiences. However, it still offers glimpses of the slower, greener and more personal Bali many of us remember.

My First Lovina Adventure

A little over 30 years ago, I was staying in Kuta with a friend when we bumped into some old school friends planning to spend a night in Lovina. We decided to tag along, found a local bemo—a small minibus with a driver—and headed north across the island.

Our driver appeared to believe blind corners were the ideal place to overtake buses. By the time we reached Lovina, after winding through Bali’s mountainous interior and repeatedly staring down oncoming traffic, our stress levels were somewhere above the clouds.

Back then, Lovina felt almost ‘beachside’ suburban. There were quiet streets, modest homes and none of the large resorts you see today. We stayed in a slightly dingy little hotel with enormous rooms, questionable maintenance and complimentary geckos chirping at us throughout the night. It was basic, but perfect for four young friends on an adventure.

Walking down to the beach, I was approached by the sweetest but most weather-beaten elderly woman I had ever seen, offering me a massage. I politely declined but gave her some money anyway. Then I saw the beach.

The sand was black—created by Bali’s volcanic geology—and unlike anything I had experienced back home. That evening, one of the locals cooked us a wonderfully humble dinner. Our school friends eventually went to bed, while my mate and I remained outside playing guitar with some local lads. They were desperate to learn new Western songs, so I taught them Do You See What I See? by Hunters & Collectors, writing down lyrics and guitar chords as we went.

Everyone we met welcomed us with genuine warmth. It was one of those unplanned travelling experiences that stays with you.

The trip back to Kuta was equally unforgettable, though for slightly different reasons. The bemo had been making strange noises, but our driver assured us it had been repaired. After descending from the mountains, there was a sudden crunch, the van dropped heavily on its back-left corner and I watched the wheel—complete with part of the axle—overtake us and disappear into the jungle.

Sparks flew, my sleeping friends were jolted awake and, thankfully, the van eventually scraped to a safe stop.

But that is a story for another day.

Lovina Today

Modern Lovina stretches for approximately 10 kilometres across several villages, with Kalibukbuk forming its main visitor centre. The coastline remains noticeably quieter than southern Bali, with traditional fishing boats sitting on dark volcanic sand and the calm Bali Sea extending towards the horizon.

The attraction isn’t a perfect white beach or wild nightlife. It’s the space, friendliness and slower rhythm. You can walk along the shoreline without battling enormous crowds, eat in small local warungs and venture inland into a landscape of rice fields, waterfalls, temples and thick tropical vegetation.

Where We Would Stay: The Lovina Bali Resort

Our pick is **The Lovina Bali Resort** (opens in a new tab), a five-star beachfront property positioned between the Bali Sea and Bedugul mountains.

The resort offers generously sized studios and suites—its suites start from 60 square metres—along with one to four-bedroom villas, including options with private pools. There are two main swimming pools, a spa, yoga and gym facilities, beachfront dining and around 200 metres of direct beach frontage. Importantly, it is also only a relatively short stroll from central Lovina.

It delivers the comfort expected from a modern Bali resort without completely separating you from the surrounding community.

Five Lovina Experiences Worth Crossing Bali For

1. Watch dolphins at sunrise

Lovina is famous for its wild dolphins, usually seen offshore in the early morning. The resort can arrange a traditional outrigger boat trip directly from the beach. Ask for a smaller operator that gives the dolphins space—boat crowding has been an issue in Lovina, and responsible viewing makes the experience better for everyone, particularly the dolphins.

2. Snorkel, kayak or paddleboard

The relatively calm northern waters make Lovina well suited to kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Snorkelling trips can also be arranged to explore the coral and marine life offshore.

3. Walk the black-sand coastline

Take a relaxed walk towards central Kalibukbuk and the well-known Dolphin Statue. You’ll pass fishing boats, beach cafés, temples and local streets that feel considerably less manufactured than Bali’s major resort precincts.

4. Visit Banjar Hot Springs and Brahmavihara-Arama

Approximately 20 to 30 minutes west of Lovina, the natural **Banjar Hot Springs** (opens in a new tab) sit among lush tropical gardens. Nearby is Brahmavihara-Arama, Bali’s largest Buddhist monastery. A local driver can easily combine both into a half-day outing.

5. Chase North Bali’s waterfalls

Gitgit Waterfall is roughly 35 to 45 minutes away, while the beautiful waterfalls around Munduk are approximately an hour by car. Your resort can organise a driver, allowing you to include villages, mountain scenery or the lakes and temples around Bedugul along the way.

Where Good Food Does Good - Great Restaurant worth visiting

For a meal with some additional heart, try **The Global Village Foundation Kafe** (opens in a new tab). This relaxed, not-for-profit café offers Indonesian and international dishes while supporting disadvantaged and disabled members of the North Bali community. It is welcoming, unpretentious and far more meaningful than another polished tourist restaurant.

Getting to Lovina

Lovina is around 90 to 95 kilometres from Ngurah Rai International Airport, Kuta or Seminyak. Allow approximately three to four hours, depending on traffic and your chosen route.

The easiest option is to pre-arrange a private car and driver through your Lovina accommodation. You can also turn the transfer into a sightseeing day, stopping around Bedugul, Lake Beratan or one of the mountain waterfalls.

The drive is winding, so pack motion-sickness tablets if necessary—and perhaps gently remind your driver that overtaking buses on blind corners is no longer considered part of the authentic Balinese experience.

Lovina may no longer be the tiny place I discovered three decades ago, but it retains something much of southern Bali has lost: breathing room. Stay for three or four nights, meet the locals and explore beyond the beach. You’ll experience a side of Bali many visitors never realise is still there.

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