The Fiji Most Tourists Never See: A Family Road Trip Around Viti Levu

Most Fiji holidays follow a familiar formula: fly into Nadi, climb aboard a resort transfer, park your backside beside a swimming pool and move only when somebody announces happy hour.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with that. We all understand the spiritual importance of sitting quietly while somebody else brings us a drink.

But Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu, offers something far more interesting than an airport-to-resort dash. Hire a car, yes you read me right! Hire a ‘car’ and you can complete a magnificent circuit through tropical gardens, beaches, villages, forests, markets, mountains and bustling cities—all without boarding another plane and actually get to see, and get a real feel for Fiji.

This is Fly Drive Fiji with the windows down and the kids looking outside instead of asking whether the hotel has Wi-Fi.

Beginning in Nadi

You can collect your hire car at Nadi International Airport. We began with two nights in Nadi.

Fiji drives on the left, just like Australia, so there is no immediate terror at the first roundabout. Major hire-car companies operate at the airport so you have a lot to choose from, although it is worth booking ahead and checking the tyres, lights and brakes before departing.

The national highway speed limit is generally 80km/h, dropping through towns and villages.

We suggest using the Tanoa International Hotel (opens in a new tab) as a base for the first part of the trip. Set within 16 acres of gardens its only 3.5 kilometres from the airport. It sits comfortably in that three-to-four-star bracket, with a swimming pool, complimentary breakfast and family rooms sleeping two adults and two children. It feels sufficiently tropical to announce that the holiday has begun, without blowing half the budget before we reach the second stop.

Nadi deserves more than one night which gives you time to explore the colourful Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, wander through Nadi’s produce and handicraft markets and then drive into the Sabeto foothills to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant (opens in a new tab).

The garden began with actor Raymond Burr’s private orchid collection and has grown into a beautiful network of shaded rainforest paths and landscaped gardens. Even children who normally regard flowers as ‘boring’ will enjoy the jungle-like setting, it will really surprise you, make sure you give it a go.

For dinner, Nadina Authentic Fijian Restaurant (opens in a new tab) at Port Denarau introduces you to kokoda, cassava, crispy eggplant and seafood cooked with proper Fijian flavours. It is relaxed, family-friendly and far more memorable than ordering another club sandwich because nobody can agree on dinner.

Nadi to the Coral Coast

When you leave Nadi on the Queen’s Road and head south towards the Coral Coast is where the holiday stops feeling like a transfer and becomes a genuine journey.

The road will take you past sugarcane fields, villages, roadside fruit stalls and flashes of brilliant blue ocean.

The first really worthwhile detour on the journey is Momi Battery Historical Park, where World War II gun emplacements still overlook the coast. It gives the kids a quick history lesson and gives Mum the opportunity to say, “See, we can learn things on holidays,” which is always deeply appreciated.

Further along, you will reach the Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park (opens in a new tab). Established in 1987 as Fiji’s first national park, its 360-acre dune system is also one of the Pacific’s important archaeological areas. Walking across enormous windswept dunes beside a crashing ocean is not the Fiji most people expect—and that is precisely the point.

An affordable base on the Coral Coast is Gecko’s Resort (opens in a new tab), a small 28-room property near Sigatoka with tropical gardens, two pools and on-site parking. It is intimate, friendly and generally much better value than the enormous beachfront resorts.

Its Gecko’s Restaurant (opens in a new tab) serves reasonably priced local and international meals, with Polynesian dance and fire shows held on selected evenings. Its great entertainment the whole family can agree on, makes you truly feel like you are on a holiday and brings you closer to the island culture.

The major family attraction here is Kula WILD Adventure Park (opens in a new tab), home to native birds, reptiles, marine life, forest boardwalks, a jungle waterslide and a roller-coaster-style zip rail. The park also works with endangered Fijian species, so it offers considerably more than simply tiring the children out—although that remains a valuable bonus.

Through Pacific Harbour to Suva

The next leg continues east along the coast towards Suva. There is no need to rush, take your time. Make a stop around Pacific Harbour, Fiji’s self-described adventure capital, where families can choose between river tubing, rafting, waterfall walks and ziplining.

Kila Eco Adventure Park (opens in a new tab) offers ziplines, high-rope challenges and a giant swing for family members who enjoy being suspended above the rainforest. I would remain below, bravely guarding the car keys.

The final two-nights the Holiday Inn Suva (opens in a new tab) is a good choice. It’s a comfortable four-star hotel with family rooms, parking, a pool and an excellent waterfront position near the city centre. Children sharing their parents’ room can stay free under the hotel’s current family policy, while younger children can receive complimentary meals from the children’s menu when dining with a paying adult. Always check the current conditions when booking.

Suva is Fiji’s busy, multicultural capital—a completely different world from the resort strip. Make sure you browse the municipal market, explore Thurston Gardens and visit the Fiji Museum (opens in a new tab), where archaeological objects, traditional vessels and cultural exhibits help explain the country you have been driving through. The museum is currently open seven days a week.

For an easy family dinner, Sirocco Restaurant inside the Holiday Inn serves local and international dishes, while its outdoor Bati ni Wai area specialises in wood-fired pizza.

Some nights, pizza is not admitting defeat—it is preserving family harmony. You know I am right!

Completing the Circle

Rather than returning along the same southern road, take the longer King’s Road around Viti Levu’s northern side. Suva to Nadi is approximately 283 kilometres and takes four to five hours without lengthy stops, so if you have children which may mean toilet stops and snack negotiations, and if you like taking photographs, allow the entire day.

The route follows the Wainibuka River through lush countryside before reaching Rakiraki, Tavua, Ba and Lautoka. Mountains rise inland, the coast regularly reappears beside you, and roadside stalls provide fresh fruit and small encounters that passengers on a resort coach simply miss.

By the time you return the car at Nadi Airport, you will have seen beaches, cities, farms, forests, wildlife, temples, villages and two very different coastlines, and yes, all in Fiji!

You will still enjoy the pools. You will still eat far too much. But instead of merely visiting a resort in Fiji, you will have travelled ‘through’ Fiji—and that is an entirely different and more exciting holiday.

Choose your own adventure - Fiji Travel Road Trip Guide