A Hotel Worth Travelling For: Arkaba Homestead in the Flinders Ranges

There are hotels you stay at because they're conveniently located near something interesting. Then there are places like Arkaba Homestead, where getting there is half the adventure and the accommodation is precisely what you've driven all this way to experience.

Sitting on a private wildlife conservancy in South Australia's spectacular Flinders Ranges, Arkaba is roughly a five-hour drive north of Adelaide. As the traffic thins, towns get smaller and the ranges start appearing on the horizon, the city gradually feels like something that happened last week.

This is a true driving holiday that gives those that need a true escape from the rat race exactly what they need.

From Sheep Station to Something Quite Different

Arkaba began life as a sheep station in 1851. Today the sheep are gone and the property has been transformed into a wildlife conservancy where tourism helps fund the restoration of the landscape and protection of native species.

At its heart is the beautifully restored 1850s Arkaba Homestead.

There are only five guestrooms — four within the original homestead and the more private Coachman's Cottage nearby. Each has an ensuite and verandah access, while the homestead has a library, big stone fireplace, outdoor swimming pool and plenty of places to sit and contemplate the important things in life. Like whether 11am is too early for a South Australian red.

There's no television, no mobile reception and Wi-Fi is available on request.

In other words, your phone finally gets a holiday too.

This Isn't Just Somewhere to Sleep

Arkaba is all-inclusive and fully hosted, with chef-prepared meals, an open bar featuring South Australian wines and spirits, and twice-daily guided safari-style experiences included.

And this is where the place gets interesting.

You can head across the property by 4WD with field guides, walk through the ranges and creek beds, spot kangaroos, emus and other native wildlife, visit a wildlife hide and learn about the conservation work happening around you.

Afternoon drives can finish with sundowners high in the ranges. Cold drink, enormous sky, red earth and very little evidence that civilisation exists beyond the horizon. That's an outback happy hour done properly.

Meals are generally communal and built around South Australian produce, so this isn't really a place where you check in and then start Googling restaurants.

For a longer stay, however, Arkaba sometimes ventures beyond the property. One possible excursion combines exploring Brachina Gorge with lunch at the wonderfully eccentric Prairie Hotel at Parachilna, famous for dishes using native and feral ingredients and its own tiny outback brewery.

Another worthwhile Flinders detour is Heritage Blinman Mine, where you can head underground on a guided tour through the historic copper mine beneath the tiny town of Blinman.

Who's Arkaba For?

This is particularly good territory for couples, wildlife lovers, photographers, walkers and travellers who have reached the stage of life where having fewer people around counts as a luxury feature.

Families can stay too, although Arkaba is better suited to older kids interested in wildlife and the outdoors than youngsters requiring waterslides, games rooms and someone dressed as a giant wombat at breakfast.

It's also not a cheap overnight stop. Arkaba is a premium, all-inclusive wilderness experience with a minimum two-night stay — the sort of place you build a road trip around rather than accidentally discover at 6pm because you're tired of driving.

DSP Pro Tips

Drive it. Flying is possible, but arriving overland from Adelaide lets you watch South Australia slowly turn into the outback.

Stay at least two nights. That's the minimum anyway, but rushing Arkaba rather defeats the purpose.

Pack proper shoes and layers. Flinders Ranges temperatures can move around dramatically between morning, afternoon and evening.

And finally, don't spend the whole stay chasing phone reception.

You've driven five hours into the Australian outback to get away from all that.

Take the hint.