Menton’s Grand Old Dame: Sleeping Among the Orange Trees of the French Riviera

Forget the flashy five-star hotels of Monaco. In the French Riviera town of Menton, a former 19th-century palace offers something money doesn’t always buy – genuine old-world glamour, orange trees and a rather wonderful sense of history.

There’s something about arriving on the French Riviera by car that makes you feel just a little more sophisticated. Even if you’re driving a modest hire car, wearing yesterday’s shorts and still arguing with the GPS.

But while Monaco has its supercars and Saint-Tropez its superyachts, the beautiful seaside town of Menton has something arguably more appealing. A little old-fashioned charm.

And tucked away in the heart of town, surrounded by orange trees and palms, is Hôtel L’Orangeraie (opens in a new tab) – a hotel that was welcoming well-heeled European travellers long before anyone had invented Instagram.

When the Riviera Was Europe’s Playground

Built between 1865 and 1870, the property originally operated as Hôtel Beau Séjour before becoming the Grand Hôtel de Venise.

Back then, the French Riviera was where Europe’s aristocracy escaped miserable northern winters. Grand hotels, elaborate gardens and leisurely afternoons were all part of the experience.

L’Orangeraie was right in the thick of it.

Today, the hotel retains much of that historic character, particularly its remarkable one-hectare garden, filled with orange trees, palms and Mediterranean greenery.

It’s the sort of place where you half expect someone in a magnificent hat to appear carrying a silver tea service.

Thankfully, modern comforts have arrived too.

Old-World Character, Modern-Day Comfort

Despite its grand history, L’Orangeraie is a three-star property rather than an intimidating luxury establishment.

The rooms have been renovated, there’s an outdoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room, relaxation pool and massage treatments available.

A rotunda bar, terrace, library and billiards provide plenty of excuses to do absolutely nothing productive.

But the real attraction is the garden.

Sitting among orange trees that have watched generations of Riviera holidaymakers come and go is something rather special. No rooftop infinity pool required.

The hotel is also just 400 metres from the Mediterranean, making it easy to wander down to the waterfront without moving the car.

For couples, mature travellers, history enthusiasts and anyone who appreciates accommodation with a genuine story, this is particularly appealing. It’s also a lovely option for families wanting a central base without the five-star fuss.

A Little Taste of Menton

Menton is famous for its lemons, pastel-coloured buildings and distinctly Italian influence – hardly surprising given the border is just down the road.

For something a little different, visit the Palais Carnolès gardens (opens in a new tab), once part of a residence belonging to Monaco’s princes. Its citrus collection includes an extraordinary 137 varieties, from lemons and mandarins to bergamot and kumquats.

There’s also the town’s fascinating Belle Époque heritage trail, passing former grand hotels that once entertained European royalty. One even had a roller-skating room where guests skated to live music. Apparently, a swimming pool wasn’t entertaining enough.

For dinner, try A Boire et à Manger (opens in a new tab) in the old town, a cosy French bistro with an open kitchen and hearty dishes. A pleasant change from restaurants where the food arrives looking like a miniature art installation.

The Drive Is Half the Pleasure

Menton makes an excellent stop on a French Riviera road trip, particularly if you’re driving east from Nice or Monaco along the Mediterranean coast.

Take the scenic coastal roads rather than automatically following the motorway. The views are magnificent, and arriving in Menton with the sea beside you feels appropriately glamorous.

Our tip: L’Orangeraie has private parking, but spaces are limited and incur an additional charge. Reserve one directly with the hotel before arriving. Once you’re checked in, leave the car parked and explore Menton on foot.

And if you’re travelling during the famous February Lemon Festival, book accommodation well ahead.

After all, sleeping in a former Riviera palace surrounded by orange trees is rather more memorable than another anonymous hotel room.